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Short Articles about what's going on in the world of an amateur luthier

Strat Style Renovation 2 PDF Print E-mail
Written by Bill Quinn   
Wednesday, 22 October 2008

The old lacquer on this project is badly scratched and its hard to spot any dings and dents in the wood.  I decided to sand the lacquer off as it looked quite thin.  I used 80 grit paper wrapped around a block for the flat surfaces and a foam sanding pad for the curves and radiused edges.  Once the bulk of the lacquer was off I switched to 120grit paper. I now started to spot the dings and dents and a bit of chipped wood.

steaming_out_the_dings.jpgI dug out an old travel steam iron (it was new really but I commandeered it for the job) and applied a damp cloth to the dings.  I rested the hot iron on the cloth for a few seconds until I heard the steam hissing.  If you are lucky the dented wood takes up the moisture from the steam and swells back to it's original form.  In this case, the dings remained slightly depressed so the next job was to fill the dings and chips with wood filler.base_coat_on_hanger.jpg

 

Once dried the woodfiller was sanded back and I continued to sand the body smooth.  I repeated the sanding process with 240 grit and finally 320 grit. The body was now ready to paint.  I wiped it down with a tak-rag and made a hanger for the body from a piece of ply. The neck socket already had a hole drilled through the centre so I simply bolted the plywood to the neck socket.

 

I sprayed a white base coat over the body until I'd built an opaque coat.  Then I flatted this back lightly with 2000grit Wet N Dry.  I was really just knocking off any dust specks in preparation for the main body colour. 

 

red_finished_on_a_hanger.jpgI chose Tonetech's Dakota Red .  I used an Aerosol Spraymaster to give me better control over the spraying.  I sprayed light coats about 15 minutes apart until I had a solid covering of colour. Even then I managed to get a run in the paint so I left it for a day then sanded the run out.  Another couple of coats, making 8 in total, and it was ready for lacquering.

 

 

I chose a pre-cat gloss lacquer .  I want a gloss finish and the clarity of the pre-cat lacquer meant the paint colour would remain true.  The pre-cat also dries quicker so I can get more coats on in a day.  I decided to use 2 cans of lacquer to get enough build to flat back.

 

 
Strat Style Renovation PDF Print E-mail
Written by Bill Quinn   
Tuesday, 21 October 2008

strat_style_before.jpgI bought this project on ebay for around £30.  I wanted something to practice on before working on something more valuable.  This strat style guitar came as a 2 pickup style with a tortoiseshell scratchplate made from some pretty tacky plastic.  The neck is a ‘Vintage', off the shelf neck and is nice and straight.  The body is some sort of good quality plywood with a birch facing. 

 

The first job was to strip all the hardware off and unbolt the neck.  I used Wera Phillips screwdrivers to remove the various screws.  I wanted to retain the original screws so using a quality driver prevents damage to the crosshead screw heads. 

 

gap_on_new_scratchplate.jpgI'd already bought a ‘strat' fully loaded scratchplate so the first job was to see how it fitted.  The routing in the body was set up for the 3 pickup-plate but it didn't fit. I chiselled some more of the body away until I got the 3 pickups to nestle in the routing and could line up the scratchplate with the neck socket.  There was a gap at the bottom horn of the scratchplate.  As I'm going to paint the body (the plywood is very unattractive), I decided to fill the gap with body filler.

wood_filler_pic.jpgI used a scrap block of wood (covered in cling film to stop it sticking to the filler), and a wedge to hold it in place while the filler set.  Once set I'll sand it flat.

 
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